| Day 1: London to Paris Day 2: Versailles Day 3: Tours Day 4: Chateaux Day 5: Bordeaux |
Day 3: Tours Thursday, 11 September, 2003 Our original plan was to leave Paris on Thursday morning to travel to Mont-St-Michel off the coast of Normandy. Unfortunately, traveling to the island proved to be much harder than we had anticipated. The kind woman at the ticket window told us that our train would arrive at Rennes at 6pm but we would have to wait until the next morning for a bus to Mont-St-Michel. Instead of wasting a day in travel we opted to change our plans and travel to the city of Tours in the heart of the Loire Valley. Conveniently, a TGV (a French acronym that translates roughly to 'ridiculously fast train') was leaving within 45 minutes. After a journey of just under an hour, we arrived in Tours. The biggest gamble of the whole trip was going to Tours without knowing where we were going to spend the night. We had spent well over an hour in a Parisian internet cafe the night before searching for youth hostels in town--with absolutely no success. In fact, if you only had the internet as reference you would think Tours was a little farm village. We had, at length, secured the name of one hotel that seemed to be within our price range, though we had no idea whether we would be able to get a room or, for that matter, what conditions we might have to endure. In the end, though, I'm happy to report that I have had very few traveling experiences in my life as pleasant as our visit to Tours. After leaving the beautiful trains station we found a tourist office where a very helpful woman called the Hotel Regina, the place we had found reference to online, and booked us for two nights in a double room with shower for only 32 euros per night. (We had spend 22 euros each per night at the hostel.) And imagine our surprise when we arrived at the hotel and found a charming hostess, a clean and welcoming lobby, and a spacious room with two double beds. Valhalla, I'm telling you--at 16 euros a head. If your in Tours and on a budget you will be wise to check it out. (Hotel Regina, 2 Rue Pimbert 02 47 05 25 36). After securing shelter for the night we jumped on a local train and headed for the Chateau of Chenonceau, easily one of the most famous chateaux in the Loire Valley. From the train platform we walked down a tree lined boulevard that abruptly ended to reveal the striking facade of the 16th century chateau. The chateau's history is interestingly dominated by women. Originally built by Catherine Briconnet, it was acquired in 1547 by king Henri II and given to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. Upon Henri's death in 1559 his wife, Catherine de Medici essentially forced Diane to trade Chenonceau for the Chateau de Chaumont. It kind of makes it sound like baseball cards, really: "I'll give you a Chenonceau for an Azay-le-Rideau and a Blois." It was Catherine de Medici who added the distinctive gallery (the long part of the building) that spans the bulk of the river. It had originally been an open bridge that linked the keep to the opposite bank. After walking through most of the first floor of the chateau we walked out onto the other bank. A stunningly beautiful path lead through the forest for some distance to the grave of an 18th century owner, Madame Dupin. At the risk of overly romanticizing the place, I must say that I have never come across woods quite like those surrounding Chenonceau--they seem still and bright and, pardon the cliché, like something out of a fairy tale.  The grave of Madame Dupin, the woman who is credited with saving the chateau during the French Revolution. The gardens to each side of the entrance to the chateau are gorgeous. The garden of Diane de Poitier is, to quote Ben, like something straight out of Alice in Wonderland. Chenonceau really is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. I don't have photos of the interior because flash photography was prohibited--you'll have to take my word that the interior is also quite stunning.  A view from out of a window on the first floor of the chateau. After several hours at Chenonceau we caught a train back to Tours where we had a fantastic night at the Regina--it's amazing how wonderful even basic hotel accommodations are after being in a hostel for a couple nights. |
 The road leading to Chenonceau.  The Chateau of Chenonceau, built over the River Cher.  The tower at the front of Chenonceau.  A hallway in the basement of Chenonceau spans an arch over the Cher and connects the Larder to the Kitchen proper.  A view of Chenonceau from the gardens of Diane de Poitiers.  The private chapel inside the Chateau de Chenonceau. |
